Colle Fauniera: the epic Giro d’Italia climb in Val Maira
Jëuf, as you may already know, means “mountain pass” in Ladin. Ladin is a language spoken in many valleys of Trentino-Alto Adige. But it is not the only “unofficial” language present in the national territory. There is also Occitan, spoken beyond the border as well, in Italy, Spain, and France. For this shooting we decided to go to the heart of the Occitan territory: in Val Maira, a Piedmontese valley well known for its good food, numerous hikes, but above all for the iconic climbs loved by cyclists from all over the world.
The climb to Colle Fauniera is one of the most famous Alpine climbs in Piedmont. It became famous thanks to the Giro d’Italia for the legendary 1999 stage. At the top of the pass, at the crossroads between Valle Grana and Valle Stura, stands the monument to Marco Pantani, who attacked on that climb, leaving everyone behind for many kilometers. This climb is considered one of the toughest in Italy: long, demanding, yet very scenic.
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The Little Dolomites of Piedmont: riding between ridges and pinnacles
Descending from the pass and continuing towards Valle Stura, we enter the heart of what are considered “the Little Dolomites” of Piedmont. The dolomia, pale and austere, bears the weight of millennia on its surface, yet also reflects a gentle light that changes with every cloud, with every pedal stroke. Every meter gained is a small victory, every bend an invitation to stop and look.
The landscape becomes increasingly rugged and authentic, marked by ridges and pinnacles silhouetted against the sky. Here the mountains show their truest character, made of stone and silence, but also of suggestions that strike those who take the time to stop and observe. The effort of the climb blends with the pleasure of discovery: riding among these rocks means feeling part of a place where nature has carved its masterpiece slowly and patiently. Every breath becomes deeper, every glance more attentive, because here the journey is not only physical, but also sensory.
From Demonte to Dronero: cycling through Alpine villages and authentic Val Maira landscapes
After a long descent, we arrive in Demonte. To return to our refuge, we go down into the valley and then climb back up from Dronero. Dronero is a small village nestled in the Val Maira, where history and nature meet among ancient stones and wooden houses. Its streets tell of a land of tradition and hard work. Setting off again from here means facing a climb that, while demanding, offers views and glimpses that match the rhythm of the pedals. Every bend reveals new spaces, as the valley opens below us, guiding our way towards the final goal. Riding in this environment is a way to experience the mountains at your own pace, among silences and authentic landscapes.
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Castelmagno DOP and Alpine traditions: a journey through flavors and history
Climbing back up the valley, we notice various farms, dairies, and shops selling local products. We stop at “La Meiro,” a farmhouse that smells of wood, tradition, and high-altitude pastures. We are welcomed with a generous platter of local cold cuts and cheeses, to be enjoyed slowly after a day of riding. The star, of course, is Castelmagno DOP, produced only in three towns in the Valle Grana. An intense cheese, with a crumbly texture and deep flavor, telling the full character of the mountains that created it.
After the tasting, the host takes us to the cellar, where the wheels age in silence, between thick walls and humidity that speaks of time and patience. The air is dense and fragrant, every wheel telling a different story depending on its age, height of maturation, and the hand that cared for it. It’s incredible how the passing of the months, high in the mountains, transforms Castelmagno into something rare and precious.
This cheese, according to legends linked to it, has a strong connection to the Sanctuary of San Magno. Here Alpine, religious, and linguistic traditions intertwine. Located at 1,761 meters above sea level, the sanctuary seems suspended out of time. Its isolated position and the harsh climate surrounding it for much of the year make visiting an immersive experience, allowing you to perceive the mountain in its truest form. Here, between silence, wind, and stone, you come into contact with an Alpine authenticity that resists, strong and discreet, the passing of the seasons.
Mountain sunset: silence, pedaling and gratitude
Darkness begins to fall slowly, enveloping the valley in a golden, peaceful light. We stop to watch the changing sky: the first stars appear while the sunset paints everything in stunning colors. We are heading back to the refuge, with tired legs but full hearts. Waiting for us are gnocchi with Castelmagno, already imagined as creamy and warm, to be enjoyed with closed eyes, as one does with simple and perfect things, when all around is silence, mountains, and gratitude.